My debut collection was birthed by a love for and a lack of pockets. Named after the fin-de-siecle feminist movement, the New Woman.
Before the latter end of the 19th century, pockets were all but unseen in women's clothing. In a way, they were political- "the less women could carry, the less freedom they had". During the suffrage movement in France, many angry men wrote articles lamenting over the "threat" of this new freedom of expression in women flaunting new suits with pockets. "...it's that women's pockets could carry something secret, something private, or something deadly." Prior to this, the only method of carrying items for women was through accessories such as the chatelaine- think a charm bracelet for your waist- that hung small tools for nurses or seamstresses over their dress for everyone to see.
Pockets were long associated with ownership of property and wealth. Someone who owned very little or had very little seemingly had no use for pockets- i.e. Women! Duh! That's just for their husbands and fathers! They also performed an important function of housing private and very personal possessions. The concept that women could carry something concealed was very threatening to men, as shown through the quote above. Ultimately, the arrival of pockets in womenswear was much more prominent and important than you may have previously believed. And even though we got pockets, most brands to this day still either forego pockets entirely or give us fake ones just to piss us off. I don't have much working real estate on lingerie, but I made pockets as big and as beautiful as I could without compromising style.
"...association of pockets with the New Woman's desire for meaningful occupation, the drive for physical mobility and adventure, and her ability to craft her own identity."